The short answer

Diatoms are a golden-brown dust that wipes off glass, sand and rock and comes back slowly over days. Dinoflagellates are rust-brown, stringy or sheet-like, commonly hold trapped air bubbles, and typically thin out overnight and return once the lights come back on. Colour alone will mislead you; behaviour over one light cycle separates them far more reliably. If it puffs off as dust and settles again, treat it as diatoms. If it strands, bubbles and disappears before lights-on, treat it as dinoflagellates — and change nothing quickly.

  • Dust that wipes offGolden-brown film, no bubbles, returns over several days. Usually diatoms.
  • Strands that hold bubblesRust-brown strands or sheets lifting off rock. Usually dinoflagellates.
  • Gone before lights-onThinner or missing in the morning, back by mid-morning. The strongest clue you can see.
  • Confirm before you actLook at the same spots three times in one day before touching the tank.
Handle it carefully

Some dinoflagellates produce compounds that are harmful to other tank life, and keeper reports of snail and other invertebrate losses after a heavy bloom are common. Keep your hands out of the water where you can, wear gloves when you must reach in, do not blast the growth into the water column, ventilate the room, and wash up afterwards. This page helps you identify what you are looking at. It is not a treatment protocol.

Compare the two side by side

Nine cues, one table. Work down it with your own tank in front of you rather than from memory.

CueDiatomsDinoflagellates
ColourGolden brown to light brown, usually even across a surface.Rust brown to dark brown, often patchy, sometimes reddish under strong light.
TexturePowder or dust. No visible structure.Strings, sheets, mucus webs, or a film with strands running through it.
BubblesNone.Common — strands lift off surfaces with trapped air.
Overnight behaviourLooks much the same in the morning as it did at night.Thinner or gone before lights-on, back by mid-morning.
Where it settlesGlass, sand surface, new rock, new sand, low-flow corners.Rock, sand, coral bases, frag plugs, pump and nozzle bodies.
When you wipe or fan itComes off as dust and returns over days.Comes off in strands and sheets and returns within hours.
When keepers report itOften in newer tanks, or after new sand, new rock, or a change in source water.Often in tanks that have run very low on the nutrients keepers normally test for.
Effect on the tankMostly a film over surfaces and light.Coats surfaces, irritates what it settles on, and can spread into the water column.
Usual directionCommonly fades as the tank matures and surfaces are grazed.Commonly persists or returns until the cause is addressed.
No single row decides it. Two or more dinoflagellate cues lining up is enough to treat the growth as dinoflagellates until you can confirm otherwise.

The three-point check you can run today

Pick two or three spots you can find again — a patch of sand, a piece of rock, one corner of the glass — and look at the same spots three times in one day.

  • Before the lights come on — First thing in the morning1. Observe initial stateNote whether the growth is there at all, and exactly where it sits.
  • At mid-photoperiod — Halfway through the light period2. Observe active growthNote the colour, whether strands or sheets have formed, and whether bubbles are trapped in it.
  • An hour after lights-out — Once the tank is dark3. Observe night transitionNote whether the growth has thinned, lifted, or moved into the water column.
  • Any time — Using a turkey baster or powerhead4. Fan one patchDust that puffs off and settles again is one thing. Sheets that peel away and drift are another.
  • Same time each day5. Wipe one small area of glassNote how fast that patch returns, and whether it returns as dust or as strands.
  • After each of the three looks6. Write down what you sawSame spots, same day, in your own words. Compare the notes before you change anything.
Two days beat one

Repeat the three-point check on at least two separate days before you decide. A single look at a single hour is how most of these misidentifications happen, because the two organisms look most alike in the middle of the light period.

Which one are you looking at?

Answer in order. Stop at the first question you answer yes to.

Start here

There is brown growth on sand, rock or glass.

1. Does it lift off in strands or sheets, with bubbles trapped in it?

Yes → Treat it as dinoflagellates. Go to the steps below and start with the lowest-risk moves.

No → Continue to question 2

2. Is it thinner or gone before the lights come on, and back by mid-morning?

Yes → Treat it as dinoflagellates. Go to the steps below and start with the lowest-risk moves.

No → Continue to question 3

3. Does it wipe off as dust and return over several days?

Yes → Treat it as diatoms. Go to the steps below and expect it to fade as the tank matures and surfaces are grazed.

No → Continue to question 4

4. Is it slimy or mat-like, or green and hair-like rather than brown?

Yes → It may be neither of these two. Cyanobacteria and hair algae are the most common look-alikes, and they need a different response.
No → Do not dose anything. Keep running the three-point check and get the growth confirmed before you treat it.

This tree is triage, not identification. The only way to confirm which organism you have is a microscope.

The order that works

Seven steps, in this order. Do not skip to the last one.

1
Finish the check first

Complete the three-point check across at least two days and write down what you saw before you touch anything.

2
Record your own numbers

Test and log the parameters you normally track — salinity, alkalinity, nitrate, phosphate and temperature — with your own kits, on the same day. Note the date next to the values. Those numbers decide which step comes next.

3
Remove only what you can reach, gently

Siphon or wipe the patches you can get to during your normal maintenance. Run a fine filter pad or floss in the flow path to catch what lifts off, and change it out. Do not blast growth off rock into open water.

4
Keep your water changes routine

A large water change is not a reliable fix for either problem, and in a tank that already tests low for the nutrients you track it removes what the system is short of. Stay with your normal schedule unless you have a separate reason to change more.

5
Change one variable, then wait

Pick a single thing to adjust — flow, photoperiod, feeding, or filtration media — change only that, and leave it alone long enough to see what it did. Several days of the same three-point check is a reasonable minimum before the next change.

6
Re-test on a fixed schedule

Test at your normal cadence and log the results next to the previous ones, so you are reading a trend instead of a single number.

7
Escalate with evidence

If the growth holds after the low-risk moves, get the growth identified under a microscope or get a second opinion before using any product. Bring your log and your photos with you.

Mistakes that make it harder

These six are the ones that cost the most time.

Diagnosing from one look

The clue that separates these two only exists if you look at the tank at different times of day.

Treating both problems the same way

A new-tank diatom film and a dinoflagellate bloom need different responses, and the difference comes from the check.

Reaching for a big water change

In a tank that already tests low, this can make the problem harder to solve rather than easier.

Dosing before identifying

Anything strong enough to kill cells also reaches your invertebrates and corals. Do not dose what you have not confirmed.

Changing several things at once

When you change three variables and the growth recedes, you have learned nothing you can use next time.

Blowing growth into water

It spreads to new surfaces, and it puts whatever it contains into the water you are leaning over.

Edge cases worth knowing

Six situations where the standard check needs a caveat.

Both nutrients read zero
A zero reading is not always the whole story, because fast-growing algae is taking nutrients up as quickly as they appear. Confirm the reading with a second test method before you treat a low number as the cause or start adding anything.
It is only on the sand, and it vanishes every night
That pattern is the classic dinoflagellate presentation. Work the sand bed in sections rather than stripping the whole bed in one go, which disturbs far more of the system than the growth does.
It is growing on the corals
Priority one is the coral, not the film. Keep the parameters you track stable, do not scrub coral tissue, and do not stack several interventions to get rid of it faster.
You have two things growing at once
Dinoflagellates and cyanobacteria often appear together. Identify both first, then treat the one doing visible damage, one change at a time.
Animals look wrong, or something has died
Remove anything dead promptly, move or isolate what you can, keep your hands out of the tank where possible, wear gloves when you must reach in, ventilate the room, and wash up afterwards.
You are considering a lights-out period
It can knock the visible growth back without changing what caused it, and light-dependent livestock pays the price. If you try it, treat it as one measured change with a before-and-after log rather than a fix.

Questions we get about brown growth

The six we are asked most often.

Can I tell diatoms from dinoflagellates without a microscope?
Usually yes, at the level that decides your next move. Behaviour across the light cycle separates them more reliably than colour does: diatoms sit still and wipe off as dust, dinoflagellates strand, bubble, and come back with the lights. Confirming which organism you actually have needs a microscope.
Do dinoflagellates go away on their own?
The visible growth sometimes recedes, but unlike a new-tank diatom film it commonly returns. Treat a bloom that keeps coming back as something to diagnose rather than something to wait out.
Are dinoflagellates dangerous to fish and corals?
Some produce compounds that are harmful to other tank life, and keeper reports of snail and other invertebrate losses after a heavy bloom are common. Coral damage is usually reported as smothering and irritation. Treat a heavy bloom with caution, keep your hands out of the water where you can, and do not assume it is harmless.
Will a big water change fix it?
Not reliably. In a tank that already tests low for the nutrients you track, a large change removes what the system is short of. Keep your normal schedule and change one variable at a time instead.
Should I test for silica?
Silica is what diatoms build their shells from, so a change in source water can sit behind a sudden diatom bloom. Test your source water before treating the display, because the fix may be upstream of the tank.
Should I use a product that says it kills dinoflagellates?
Not before the growth has been identified. Anything strong enough to kill cells in the water column also reaches your invertebrates, your corals and your filter community. If you do decide to use one after confirming the identification, follow the manufacturer's instructions exactly, do not exceed them, and do not run two products that do the same job at the same time.